Sunday, January 14, 2007

**This is all that was written in the Roatan journal. The author and Josh Shields left the next day for the United States and arrived home to Boone, North Carolina at about 4am the morning after leaving. And no, the author did not get her bags searched, due to too long a wait at the Roatan airport and so was able to bring home a few fully intact conch shells for her family**

Day Seven

08/04/2005

After three dives yesterday, I decided that the night dive was a good place to stop for the trip ( I mean, what is going to top that?). The water is just as choppy today as it was last night as well. I hung out at the dive shop with Doug until Josh got done with his last few exercises on his Rescue Diver course (he did well, passed flying colors and all that). A couple of the cats decided to use Doug as a couch while we both took siestas on the outdoor benches. I woke up from a doze in time to snap a rather funny picture of the resulting cat-pile. We took a latish sort of brunch-breakfast at the diner/restaurant upstairs (George is our waiter. The menu usually consists of a choice of breakfast, lunch or dinner J, not much selection, but it is usually good food). I just had toast and orange juice, having already eaten some cereal at the house-thingy, but Doug likes to talk , and I really had nothing else to do, but I did take offerings of toast to the Evil Parroty beast, even though it pinched the absolute hell out of me earlier this week. There was a little green parrot beside the dastardly Macaw, and though it was rather shy, it was still nice enough and accepted some toast bits as well. There is a young malamute looking pup at the end of the shop’s dock that I think I’ve fallen quite in love with. One of the owners of the larger yacht has purchased this dog and tied it up away from the others in the shop, basically to teach it to be a guard dog. I don’t think I’m helping all much in its training, since I constantly play with it. It doesn’t bark at all, so I really can’t see what good it’s going to be as a vicious attack animal, but I think it has quite a ways to grow still, so perhaps it will reach it’s potential yet. I took it a dead crab while we waited, thinking that, like any other animal on this island, it was probably hungry. Apparently the shop/resturant/ hotel/aparment building where Subway Scuba is now located (at the time of this trip, Gillian is trying to get moved to Parrot Tree Resort, the real-estate being better) is owned by a major car/machinery importer family in Rio (or someother South American country, but I’m pretty sure it’s Rio) who use it basically to lose money as a write off on their taxes. Nonetheless, it’s really very pretty here and the restaurant is rarely crowded, but clean and very nice. After Josh got back in, we went back to Palmetto for awhile to put on long pants and much, much more bug-juice (something made from cactus) because Doug asked Mark if he wouldn’t mind taking us through some mangroves since I had never been (YAY! Big water tree thingies!). We went to the yacht club for some Hawaiian pizza (which took FOREVER). While we waited, Josh took me up to see the ‘view bench,’ which sits at the top of the hill above the club. It was beautiful, I could see all the way out over the shrimp-boat harbor and out into the sea. The pizza didn’t arrive until after Mark did, and even though Doug offered to buy him a beer, he politely abstained, saying he had to play soccer in a few hours (he apparently plays for a league team that is now in the semi-finals, working towards a big-time meet on mainland, meaning Honduras). We ate speedily when the food came (in the French Harbor’s defense, there is a music festable going on this weekend [Carib Fest] and they actually had more then two or three tables worth of guests for a change). And then picked up Mark (I think its actually spelled Marc) at the grocery store and followed him to his house to get his boat. During our wait time at dinner, we found out that Marc not only plays some damn fine soccer, he also used to work the same cruise line that Doug did doctor work for. The drive afterwards was over the ridge of the island, and isolated in the extreme, the view was gorgeous, though. Random large estates and houses made appearances among waves of grass, overlooking waves of salt. There were a number of horses (much like the one that met us on the dirt road from Palmetto) just barely to be seen. Marc turned out to live in a very rural, very poor part of the island, but aside from a few sideways looks, no one seemed to mind us either way. We met Marc’s son and a few of his nieces and nephews. Marc at work is a very hyper, jolly and loud guy; Marc away from work is more quiet, but still basically a happy guy. He took us out in a one engine craft that couldn’t have been more then 10ft long ( the only comment I could think of was to quote Princess Leia, “You came in that thing? You’re braver then I thought.”), but I loved every minute of it. Josh and I sat in the bow, legs stretched over the gas tank/can, salt spray blowing in our faces. Doug sat in back with Marc and talked about nearly everything. I get the distinct impression that Doug, much like my Gran, can talk to just about anyone. The ride over was through inlets and bays and the edges of local resorts, everything is on stilts, as usual for islands, I am learning. We passed a seafood packing plant that supplies Miami/Tampa with its lobster and shrimp. We snapped pictures like good little tourists and passed under two bridges that had crabs scurrying in the foundations. The entrance into the mangroves was shallow and nearly defeated our tiny engine, but we made it into the dank, soured and absolutely breath-taking passageway. It looked as if a polished glass walkway gave seed to the twisted trunks and swaying leaves. Mossy black slime coated the tangled roots to mark where the water reached at the peak of high tide. The occasional bird flitted around, dodging through the gloom. The rarer on dared to venture a snatch of song. We learned that the Voyager, the largest of the dive boats we’d been using all week, was in fact bought by Patrick second hand from someone that had found it floating around, probably and ex-smuggling or drug-running boat. Marc told us this after we’d seen a apparently abandoned boat floating around in the circular turn-around bay in the middle of the mangrove forest.

Day Six

08/04/2005

I must have eaten something that disagreed with me one of these last few days, because I spent most of last night in the loo. Today I’m just a touch naseous. We did a shallow sort of reef dive today and a chimmney dive with Gillain first off, and then stopped by this place called Parrot Tree for coffee and a muffin (we had Gatorade too, for hydration J). Josh and me held the boat up for a minute or two because we were off taking pictures. Parrot Tree was a cute little rich touristy place, but very beautiful, despite that. After Parrot Tree, we headed off for sandy, shallower water and a wreck named the Prince Albert. It was a smaller boat, just barely to be considered a ship, really. I went into the below decks and then out the next portal, not being very comfortable with it yet, and then under the way on the end of the boat. I was more comfortable the second run through, but I still didn’t like it as much as just drifting the reefs. Mark found us another seahorse and then a camouflaged ugly something or other on the first dive. Gillian took me down for some fin-pivoting/hovering/ buoyancy exercises before she would let me do the wreck, so I was perhaps much better prepared when the time actually came and she pointed at me to descend into the hull. After that, we came back to Palmetto while Josh had some more Safety Cert. Training (lost diver retrieval, I think). I ended up falling asleep in the hammock again after reading the chapter in the PADI book about night diving. Aellen ( a very pretty woman from somewhere in Europe, Scandinavia, I think) was our dive master for that dive and my dive-buddy since I am the rookie. We all got flashlights and headed out of the bay in the Moya. The water was very choppy, but it was lovely to be out at sea just as the sun was setting. There were hundreds of gigantic sea-urchins out, starfish (brittle stars, to be exact) and fish one doesn’t normally see during the day. The colors were much more vivid by torch-light then they were during the day as well. Aellen pointed out a small eel poking its head out of its’ burrow. Small swarming sea-lice came around our lights in clouds at one point. Bit the hell out of my wrist, but other then that everything left us pretty much alone. A lot of the fish were asleep as well, and it was quite amusing to see small parrot fish snoozing in the crevasse as we went by. I did a bit of underwater navigation so that Aellen can sign off on my Advanced Open Water Diver course as one of my ‘elective’ dives. Shauna and Scott did a bit of that as well. We caught a fish sandwich here at the clubhouse before we headed out for tonight’s dive, so I wasn’t hungry when I heaved myself on deck about 45 minutes later. The sea was rough, so I took a bit of water but I managed to get on-board fine. I did, however, have a rather sneaky and unexpected bout of mild sea-sickness on the way back, but was ok once I’d gotten back on the shore and had a cat mildly assault me for an ear-rub. It’s odd to have someone make my bed for me everyday, but I don’t mind J. there is only sheets on the bed, but I don’t expect they often get cold-blooded gringos like myself here. It’s lovely to wake up at about 4 in the morning and be chilly. I think we’re eating here tomorrow, the wife of the owner here told us that there would be a Jamaican band here tomorrow night and an Italian fiddle/violin player the night after that. Shauna apparently passed her ’snorkel-test’ quite well and dove with us this morning , but claims to remember nothing of the night before. Scott seconds that, but remembers nothing himself either. The only person able to give a relatively clear version of events is Aellen, who thinks the whole thing hysterical. I’m exhausted, but quite happy.

Day Five

08/03/2005

This morning I forwent breakfast in favor of sugar-laden coffee and orange juice ( or the closet thing here). Our first dive, Antonio (Josh’s instructor) came with us, so did the rest of the D.M.I.T. nits J, they’re good kids, if a bit spastic. We were invited to attend Shwana’s snorkel test tonight, which is when a newly certified dive master takes a turn in the booze-snorkel (a phrase of my own devising) and is given straight liquor. So tonight we’re heading out to the West End to watch the fun. Every morning Josh’s dad wakes the both of us up with an ‘ode to the place we’re at’ as I call it, I think I might ask him to do a little Shakespeare, it makes me feel less guilty about missing the sunrise J. Our first dive was a place called ‘Fish Soup,’ named so because it has about a bazillion fish in it, around it, and though it. I’m going to put links to all the fish I’ve seen on my live-journal so that everyone else can see them too. Josh’s dad went out for a second dive at 11, but I opted to stay behind and play with the camera, taking about 100 picture of the local crabs, flowers, birds and lizards. I also snapped a few of doing part of his pool work for his dad. We had lunch above the store again, but I don’t know where we’re going to dine for supper. Someplace on the West End, I suppose. Josh’s dad didn’t go with us on the third dive of the day (my second), but admonished Josh to stick to me and me to stick to Mark. This was a drift dive, and we had to get the boat to come pick us up afterwards. Clifton didn’t pilot us this trip, a friend of Mark’s (or a distant relative, not sure which) did. He was a nice guy, we ended up giving him a ride part of the way home. There were two seahorses on this last dive, one red one (solid red) and one greenish one. This dive tired me out, having to fight against the current the whole way. The water was a little cloudy, but not bad. I came across a perfect little garden-flower-like group of fan/tube worms. There was also another huge crab. Doug nearly gave me a heart-attack during our first dive, a barracuda swam by and he rapped me on the shoulder from behind. I nearly peed in my wetsuit J. I’m actually borrowing Melissa’s (Doug’s girlfriend) wetsuit, it’s a back-zip 1mm and actually fits quite well. The dive kids and boat people sing the entire time we’re out and it’s hilarious to hear Mark offering the red-head ‘ladies’ and Shauna’s finger-shaking exclamation of “Now don’t you be offering him ladies!” The red head and Shauna are a steady item, and it’s amusing to watch them play around. I talked to Mum, Dad and Nome last night on the clubhouse phone, everything back home appears to be going swimmingly, and, as e-mail is the only reliable way I have to talk to the family, I was admonished to send more. I’m going to be taking a brief swinging nap in the hammock now and write more when I get back tonight. Josh and I can only make 1last, shallow dive on Saturday, since we’re flying back on Sunday morning , but I am going to use my remaining time to take a full camera of pictures and by some souvenirs for my family………………………………
I can’t figure out if it was because I fell asleep in a hammock or because I’ve spent the last week on a boat, but I woke up sick to my stomach, everything moved, the floor, the bar in the kitchen, the lights, everything… I spent most of the night discreetly in the head, and eating peppermint tic-tacs. We didn’t end up going to the West End with the dive group, but instead stopped at a place called Rick’s American. Apparently it is what passes for a sports bar around here. We were the only people there besides a local couple a table over. The entire staff was female, apparently Rick had a place to come for drinks and look at waitresses, harmless sort of guy with a beer-belly. Doug takes great delight in having someone new to relate childhood stories about Josh to. Josh just sighs, smiles and laughs. It was 10pm, before we left to go home, and because my last boat dive of the day was such a hard one (I was exhausted) I was more then happy to call it a night. I guess that we’ll just have to hear about the one world-wide dive master initiation rite as it applies to our little Shauna. Mt sunburn is truly ferocious, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the baby’s lotion I brought with me is actually not only vitamin E enriched (don’t ask me what that has to do with anything),but also contains copius amounts of aloe vera. Right now I’m listening to one of Doug’s Sinatra cds while I finish this and getting ready to shower for bed.

Day Four

08/02/2005
This morning I didn’t wake up until Doug came down the hall to rouse Josh and I. My contact was bothering me somewhat (right eye) but it settled down after my first dive. Today we rode out on the Moya with Mark and his nephew again. We dove Mary’s Place (note: since this journal, I read an article in the Scuba Today magazine about Mary’s Place, apparently it is quite the Big Deal) first off, making it, at 110 ft, the deepest place I have ever dived. Mary’s Place is a natural rift in the coral reef, about 4 ft wide and quite a large number of times deeper , it is one of the most spectacular on Roatan’s reefs. We dove the deep end first, Doug following Josh, who followed me. I followed Mark. He stopped twice to point out fan-worms, very pretty, delicate, feeders extended like silk flowers from a lipstick case. He tapped them gently with his pointer-stick-thingy and they zipped down to nothing, leaving only a tiny tube of black body left. We spotted another jelly off the edge of the wall. Josh had to give me another weight while I was down, but I did not break the surface this time. I have sunburn across my shoulders, but that is the only part of me that appears burnt, the only real difficulty is the huge amount of sand fleas that seem magnetically attracted to my body. I had to go through a fan of ocean plants (I assume) to enter Mary’s Place, but apart from one or two tank bumps on rocky outcroppings, I didn’t manage to touch anything. The boat ride back was lovely, the Moya is quite a bit smaller then the Voyager. It bounced with every tiny wave and seemed like immortality with an engine. I chatted with Mark on the way back, who has 5 brothers and 5 sisters, a few of whom live in Miami and other parts of the States. Josh is taking the Rescue Diving course here, so I opted to wait out the second dive of the day and nap on and off by the pool. I got to talking with one of the little dive masters in training about school and everything and she mistakenly thought that Josh and I were dating, but was quite embarrassed to discover that we’re simply friends and apologized profusely, but I didn’t mind, poor chickie. Cute girl J. during my brief cameos of conciousness, I saw Josh working on his skills and crabs scuttling away under my eye. There is a small attention-whore of a kitten that is taken care of by Gillian in the shop. It is white with red spots and yellow-green eyes and huge batty ears. We ate in the resturant above the shop, some sort of beef-like meat in a rather good sauce with mashed potatoes and a small salad. The second dive for me was nearly as fabulous as the first, I saw three moray eels, a huge crab and innumerable fishes. We docked at a Coco Beach boat, with a total of 12 divers from that boat alone, there was a huge seahorse found by the dive master from the Coco-people, at least double the size of the one we saw yesterday. I’m exhausted, but happy. I made a brief surface during our three minute safety stop, but I could fix it easily and did. A few trumpet fish later and Mark zipped away on his motory-bike a contraption seemingly held together by dive stickers and luck. We ate here at Palmetto tonight, and afterwards Josh and I lay on the dock under the canopy and watched the stars dance above us through the opening in the center. We talked about serious things, but later, looking down into the water I saw blinking lights and rushed back down the pier to grab handfuls of sand and cause mini-explosions of light.